All about body care > Hair removal > Intense pulsed light hair removal

Thanks to technological innovations and the popularization of cosmetic treatments, “permanent” hair removal has become part of our culture. Nowadays, the majority of men and women no longer fear using the wonders of science to get rid of those unsightly hairs once and for all. In fact, they don’t ask “should I?” so much as “where should I?” With all the offers and claims out there, it can be difficult for people to separate fact from fiction in order to make an informed decision as to which of the two main permanent hair removal methods they should choose: laser or Intense Pulsed Light (IPL)?

The principle of long-term hair removal

First, light energy is captured by the melanin (pigment present in hair) contained in the bulge (along with the matrix, one of the two structures responsible for hair re-growth) when the hair is in an anagen growth phase. The light is then converted into heat to eliminate the hair follicle without injuring the skin.

Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) hair removal

This method has become increasingly popular, especially since 1997, because it has been marketed as being quick and inexpensive. But is this really the case?

Most of the time, the price difference can initially be explained by the devices’ cost difference. Contrary to popular belief, IPL lamps do not use laser technology. They are xenon flash lamps that often cost around $15,000 / 7-8 000 euros versus $85,000 / 40-45 000 euros for a laser device, if we compare the cheapest models. Now, in terms of function: Intense Pulsed Light uses different physical and technological principles. Unlike laser systems, IPL devices emit non-coherent polychromatic light with a wavelength of 500 to 1,200 nm, depending on the interposition of the filters6. IPL lamps emit light pulses of different wavelengths and do not offer the same precision as laser systems, despite the filters. Broad spectrum wavelengths are used to treat a larger area, without specifically targeting unwanted hair. Each session is therefore shorter, but less effective.

The number of sessions needed and the total cost to obtain “definitive” results is often substantially greater with IPL treatments than with laser treatments7, resulting in little or no savings in the final analysis. Indeed, with an exceptional quality IPL lamp, one or two more sessions are required, and with the vast majority of IPL lamps on the market, a much greater number of sessions are required.

According to comparative studies, IPL treatments also pose a greater risk of skin injuries and of inconsistent results. It should be noted that IPL lamps were not initially designed for hair removal, but rather for skin rejuvenation. Only high quality IPL lamps – of which there are few – can be considered somewhat effective for hair removal. Moreover, the effectiveness of IPL treatments hinge on device maintenance, as the lamps become more unstable with use and must be frequently replaced (after several thousand pulses)9. Each change also requires re-calibrating the treatment settings, as energy intensity levels may vary from one lamp to another.

Restrictions

Another factor to consider is that IPL treatments are only for people with white skin and dark hair, not for those with tanned, olive or darker skin tones. As well, sun exposure must be completely avoided during the months of treatments.

It is true that IPL sessions are considerably less painful than laser sessions, as the rays do not penetrate as deeply in the dermis. Using IPL can be very effective for certain applications, including reducing and lightening unwanted hair, such as arm hair.

Contraindications

Despite what you may have heard, the basic contraindications are the same for both methods, albeit to varying degrees. Neither method is advised for people with skin that is tanned or exposed to the sun before or after treatments, for people with white, blond or pale red hair (which only electrolysis can treat); for those taking photosensitizing drugs or with photodermatosis; for pregnant women or kids; or for treating tattooed skin areas. In addition, IPL is not recommended for people with olive, dark or black skin.

Conclusion

Laser and Intense Pulsed Light are powerful technologies approved by Health Canada for cosmetic applications. These methods are not without risk and can cause unwanted side effects. While generally mild and transitory, these can be serious in some cases. To make an informed decision, be sure to ask a professional about the device used, its quality, the result you can expect to see, the training of the technical personnel, and the medical supervision of the treatment protocol. A personalized consultation beforehand will be necessary to evaluate your skin type and the method that is best for you. And remember, think of your body and your health first, not your wallet!