Under the three-piece suit, a sharp gentleman's shirt is teamed with a cashmere pullover or polo neck, as seen at Paul Smith. Two-piece tailored suits reveal a peek of white shirt, highlighted with a big knot (Valentino) or a tone-on-tone tie (Gucci, Ralph Lauren). White is in everywhere: only the texture differs. Opaque tights are worn at all times: the working girl likes to cover up. Jewelry is discreet and kept to a minimum.

Accessorizing
The working girl can't head out without a designer handbag, briefcase, postman's bag or laptop case (Chloe's was a big hit) as a symbol of power and wealth. Whatever the bag, think BIG. Jackets are tailored and accentuated with a wide belt. Platform ankle boots or court shoes replace the stiletto, while black-rimmed spectacles add Miss Moneypenny efficiency to the look. Skirts have lost much of their length and expose the knees, leaving room for boots that come up to mid-calf. The trench coat is another must-have accessory for the career girl; this season it has been reconstructed yet again, with bondage-style straps, balloon sleeves and large fur trims. Céline does an elegant interpretation in dark brown crocodile, while Paco Rabanne and Emanuel Ungaro trim it with fur for a look that's both chic and dramatic. Oversized factory overalls, baggy dungarees and bag lady coats appear in muted, parcel-paper colors to create a strong sense of machine-like power and masculinity.