All about skincare > Hair removal > Laser hair removal

Thanks to technological innovations and the popularization of cosmetic treatments, “permanent” hair removal has become part of our culture. Nowadays, the majority of men and women no longer fear using the wonders of science to get rid of those unsightly hairs once and for all. In fact, they don’t ask “should I?” so much as “where should I?” With all the offers and claims out there, it can be difficult for people to separate fact from fiction in order to make an informed decision as to which of the two main permanent hair removal methods they should choose: laser or Intense Pulsed Light (IPL)?

The principle of long-term hair removal

First, light energy is captured by the melanin (pigment present in hair) contained in the bulge (along with the matrix, one of the two structures responsible for hair re-growth) when the hair is in an anagen growth phase. The light is then converted into heat to eliminate the hair follicle without injuring the skin.

Laser hair removal

The primary principle behind laser hair removal is “selective photothermolysis”. As the name suggests, this method uses high precision technology. Indeed, a laser is a device that amplifies light and makes it converge into a narrow optical beam1. It transmits monochromatic rays, with a single wavelength, where all particles are moving in the same direction (e.g. a diode laser emits a wavelength of 810 nm). The effect of these beams is therefore stable and measured, as the energy emitted remains constant. The tip used is small and targets hair with precision. With a diameter of 9 to 18 mm, it treats the area homogenously. The device provides the ergonomy, power and skin depth needed to achieve permanent hair removal. The safety of laser hair removal is also proven2, in part, because of its precision, but also because lasers usually feature built-in, temperature-controlled skin cooling systems that prevent or significantly reduce burn risks. Some diode lasers, for example, come with a handpiece whose sapphire tip cools skin to 4o C.

As the definitive hair removal method of choice for almost 20 years, lasers have a proven track record3. Dating back to the 1970s, this technology was used in the medical field long before it started to be used for cosmetic applications in 1995. Studies4 show that hair removal results are better with laser systems than with IPL systems. It should be noted that newer generation lasers are specifically designed for hair removal and that high quality devices, such as the Light Sheer, are known for their remarkable effectiveness. People should also know that there are far fewer poor quality laser devices on the market than poor quality IPL lamps.

Another benefit of laser hair removal is that it is the only method that can treat all skin types, including olive or darker skin5. Some laser devices (e.g. Nd-YAG) have been specifically developed for this purpose, while others have refined their calibration settings in order to expand the range of skin types that can be treated. People should also know that lasers not only target the destruction of the hair bulge (a reservoir of germ line cells), but that of the hair bulb (the lower extremity of the hair follicle in the dermis). Lasers make the hair “explode” from the bulb to the bulge, which is rarely the case with IPL lamps because many of them are of inadequate quality.

Contraindications

Despite what you may have heard, the basic contraindications are the same for both methods (laser or intense pulsed light), albeit to varying degrees. Neither method is advised for people with skin that is tanned or exposed to the sun before or after treatments, for people with white, blond or pale red hair (which only electrolysis can treat); for those taking photosensitizing drugs or with photodermatosis; for pregnant women or kids; or for treating tattooed skin areas. In addition, IPL is not recommended for people with olive, dark or black skin.

Conclusion

Laser and Intense Pulsed Light are powerful technologies and are not without risk and can cause unwanted side effects. While generally mild and transitory, these can be serious in some cases. To make an informed decision, be sure to ask a professional about the device used, its quality, the result you can expect to see, the training of the technical personnel, and the medical supervision of the treatment protocol. A personalized consultation beforehand will be necessary to evaluate your skin type and the method that is best for you. And remember, think of your body and your health first, not your wallet!